
How was the first wristwatch born?
The Origins and the Female Destiny
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1810-1812: The First Documented Watch (Breguet for Caroline Bonaparte) The very first documented wristwatch was made between 1810 and 1812 by watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline Bonaparte , Queen of Naples and Napoleon's sister. This watch was a unique piece, more of a piece of jewelry than a practical timepiece, and was designed to be worn on the wrist.
That watch, commissioned in 1810 , paid for the following year, and finally delivered two years after the order, became part of the private collection of Caroline Murat , who between 1808 and 1814 ordered 34 clocks and watches from Breguet , effectively turning Napoleon's younger sister into one of the watchmaker's best clients. But also into a patron capable of ensuring the survival of Breguet's workshop. An oval-cased watch, as mentioned, is a shape not so common today in the world of hands, but perfectly consistent with the era, when these small instruments of time were usually inserted inside brooches or pendants to hang from the belt. -
1868: The Oldest Existing Wristwatch (Patek Philippe) The oldest surviving wristwatch of which we still have a physical example is the one created by Patek Philippe in 1868 for the Hungarian Countess Koscowicz. This was also a refined gold watch, intended for an elite female audience.
The Male Turn and the Functional Need
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Initial Female Accessory: For much of the 19th century, wristwatches were considered exclusively feminine accessories of prestige, while men continued to use the pocket watch .
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1904: The Men's Watch (Cartier for Santos-Dumont) The real breakthrough for the men's wristwatch came in 1904. Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his friend, watchmaker Louis Cartier, for a more practical timepiece than pocket watches, one he could easily consult while flying. Cartier created a flat watch with a square case and a leather strap that could be worn on the wrist. This design, which later became Cartier's famous "Santos," was a success and helped popularize the use of wristwatches among men.
Cartier Santos 1910, photo hausmann-co.com
Military and Mass Diffusion
- World War I: The wristwatch gained widespread popularity and became a common household item during World War I. Soldiers and officers needed to have their hands free to handle equipment and read the time quickly and discreetly, something impossible with pocket watches. Many watch companies began producing robust and practical wristwatches for military purposes, the so-called "trench watches."
In short, the wristwatch originated as a luxury accessory for women in the early 19th century, then found its use for men thanks to figures such as Santos-Dumont and Cartier, and finally established itself on a large scale as an indispensable tool thanks to military needs.